I didn’t know how much I needed this trip to the desert. I had reservations for the Alvord Hot Springs back in March, but due to COVID I waited to move my stay. I knew I wanted to wait until the summer heat was over, so we headed out in October, it was still 85 during the day.
I had been having a hard couple of months prior to this trip. Not only has 2020 been hard due to a global pandemic and a failing government, Oregon burned over 1.5 million acres of forest land in September, which took a toll in my mental health. We lived in smoke for two weeks as forests 20 mintues from our home burned. It was a stark reminder of global warming and what we have to look forward to if our justice systems don’t avocate for the land we recreate on.
I spend most of my time hiking in the trees, which is where I go to calm my mind and set my spirit free. The Oregon desert just hits differently. Maybe its the active tectonic plates on the Alvord Desert Playa? Maybe it was the full moon. Maybe it was the remoteness of the area? Maybe it was the alien vibes. It for sure was running around the playa naked that did it for me. Even with others parked on the Alvord Desert playa, its easy to feel alone out there. This land is Stolen Land of the Northern Paiute Tribe.
This part of Oregon it unlike anything else in the state I have ever seen. Not only is there an abundant amount of hot springs in the area, there is a playa, mountains, and no infrastructure. Be prepared when you are heading out to this remote part of Oregon-I will tell you more here in the blog on how to make your trip to the Alvord Desert one to remember.
Visit the Alvord Hot Springs
The Alvord Desert cannot be accessed year round. It is important to plan your trip around rain and snow, as the playa becomes sinking sand once it gets wet, so plan your trip accordingly. Follow directions to the Alvord Hot Springs, which is where you will pay the caretakers $10 to use the access road onto the playa. We booked two nights at the bunkers at the Alvord Desert, which is essentially two beds in old army bunkers. It was $70 a night and I probably wouldn’t do it again, but one nice thing was we were able to access the Alvord Hot Springs for 24 hours. Plus, it was October so it got cold after midnight, making the heater that much nicer.
If you camp in a tent on the playa, be prepared for wind, weather changes, and lots of dust. The weather gets extremely hot in the summertime, and there are no trees-so prepare with plenty of drinking water and shade. I never leave home without my Garmin InReach device, which makes me feel safe in this remote part of Oregon.
Hike in the Steens Mountain Wilderness
The Steens Mountain Wilderness is a vast area full of hiking, and driving! Lots of driving. Thats the thing about visiting this area, there aren’t many paved roads, mostly cattle roads that can be hard to drive on without a high clearance vehicle. We were in an Acura SUV and came across some roads that took quite some time to travel on as the gravel was washed out.
Since we were staying at The Alvord Hot Springs we did not make the drive over to Frenchglen, where you can drive the Steens Mountain Loop-which is the highest road in Oregon. I will be doing this drive next time I am out there, but it was 2.5 hours one way and we wanted to spend more time on the playa. If you are looking for a hike to do near the Alvord Hot Springs we did a portion of the Pike Creek Canyon Trail. Park on the road and hike .5 mile to the trailhead unless you have a high clearance vehicle like a jeep as the road has lots of low points and boulders that make it impossible to drive on.
Pro tip: if your going out in the fall be cautious as it is hunting season. Keep your dogs on leash and wear bright clothing.
Eat Lunch in Fields at The Fields Station
When you visit this area there is only one option for food, in Fields. I had read about the famous burger and milshakes at The Fields Station, which was worth the stop. The cows that graze in the area produce some of the best beef in Oregon in my opinion, which made for a mean hamburger in the middle of the desert. We watched airplanes casually land on the road and drive in to have lunch. This is a great place to stop for ice and beer if you are running low before heading back onto the playa. There is no potable water after you leave Fields as you head to the Alvord.
Hot Springs
The Alvord Desert is the most well known hot spring in the area, and there are many others to be explored. Be cautious when researching and visiting hot springs as there are some in the area that are called “hot springs” but aren’t actually safe for soaking; including Borax Hot Springs. What I loved about the hot springs in this part of Oregon is that they are all HOT. Some of the hot springs in the Willamette Valley don’t reach 100 degrees making these extra special.
It depends how much time you will have in the area. Next time I want to explore hot springs along the Owyhee River and stop at Leslie Gulch. We covered 5 hot springs in 2 days, which meant we spent a lot of time driving. If your able give yourself a week to see everything Southeastern Oregon has to offer.
Willow Creek Hot Springs is about 1.5 hours one way from the Alvord Desert, so we made a day trip out of it. There are free campsites surrounding the hot springs, but no trees. So prepare for proper shade when you are in the area, it was Ocotber and 85 degrees.
Hart Mountain Hot Springs was one of my favorite. Perhaps the uniqueness of the wall surrounding the hot springs, or the fact that it’s located in an Antelope refuge (yes we saw Antelope!), or the fact that Aspen trees were fluttering in the distance (a surprise in the desert). These hot springs also have campsites surrounding them with composting toilets.
As always, when visiting hot springs do not bring glass, and pack out your trash.
Enjoy the Playa
One of the best things I could do for my mental health was to run around naked in the desert. I didn’t realize how healing and freeing it would feel. Sure, this might not be for everybody but I promise one thing you will enjoy is sunrise and sunset on the playa. You can watch the sunrise over the mountains and the colors surround the bowl around you. There aren’t many rules on the playa, which makes it fun. Go fast, go slow, watch the planes land and circle above your head, every single part of my experience was unlike anything else I had ever experienced before.
I can’t wait to come back out when it is not a full moon and I can soak under the stars. When visiting the area be sure to Leave No Trace. I saw no trash when I was out here which made me feel those who make the trek out here are willing to do their part to keep it wild.
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