Banff National Park in Alberta Canada has been on my bucket list since I was a little girl. I remember seeing the iconic photo of Moraine Lake on National Geographic wondering if I would ever get to visit such a place. On this blog post you will find where we stayed, what we did, planning tips we learned along the way, and what to expect when you get there.
Where Is Banff?
Banff National Park is located North of Montana and East of Vancouver B.C. We flew into the Calgary airport which is an hour and 36 minutes to Banff.
If you’re driving, many people driving from the U.S. make a road trip out of it and visit Glacier National Park on the way. If you’re like us and are short on time, flying from Oregon was quite convenient and gave us the most amount of time possible in Banff with our rental car.
From Vancouver: 9.5 hours
From Seattle: 10.5 hours
Getting Around Banff National Park
We flew into Calgary and rented an SUV, which we found most accommodating to be able to do quite a bit each day. With that being said, after seeing the public transportation and shuttle options available, it is possible to see a good portion of Banff without renting a car.
Many of the lakes within Banff National Park have a shuttles and bus services directly from town through Roam Transit. We took the bus to the gondola from downtown since it was limited on parking at the gondola, more on that later.
Where To Stay
As I was planning my trip many people suggested staying in Canmore as it was less busy, a little cheaper, and had a Basecamp Resorts property that I wanted to stay at. From Canmore, it was just 20 minutes to the town of Banff. We definitely noticed the difference in ease with crowds for parking, getting breakfast and coffee in the morning, and price of lodging. We chose Basecamp Resorts as the room was equipped with a kitchen and was bigger than a hotel room, which was perfect when we wanted to unwind at the end of the day.
Camping in Banff is a cheaper option if you’re able to snag some of the first come, first serve campsites available in the park. You are also able to reserve some sites ahead of time through Parks Canada. For the leisurely traveler, this would be a great option! Since we were flying, a hotel suited our needs for this trip but I would love to come back and camp.
Staying In Canmore
When To Go
It is important to note that we booked our end of June stay 4 months before our trip. We opted for end of June because July and August are the busy months as visitors want to guarantee sunny weather if they can. We knew we would risk rain on the forecast but for less crowding in popular spots, this was worth it. It is the mountains after all, so inclement weather is going to be possible! While two days had rain on the forecast, it didn’t actually rain for more than an hour each day. We did get snow on one of our hikes but that was a core memory we wouldn’t trade for anything.
Visiting Banff National Park in winter months is popular as well, especially around Christmas and New Years. Winter activities are abundant in Banff, with three ski resorts in the area, backcountry, ice skating, and snowshoeing. Regardless of when you’re visiting, it is best to book in advance.
Getting Your Park Pass
If you’re traveling from outside of Canada, I suggest buying your park pass when you enter Banff. The ticket counters close at 8PM, so we had to make sure we had enough time for this. Since we planned to visit multiple national parks in the area, we let them know and they charged us by day. For some, purchasing the Discovery Pass makes more sense depending on how many days you’re in the area as those last a year.
We were able to snag a parks pass for 3 parks we visited while we were there from this kiosk, super easy!
Day pass: $21 a day for 2 adults
Discovery Pass: $145 for the year
Day One
Moraine Lake
Our first stop in Banff National Park had to be the iconic Moraine Lake. This parking lot only holds 150 cars, so either you have to risk the lot being closed or book a shuttle through roam transit. After reading recent trip reports, I knew being a Wednesday and sunset we would have a great chance at parking, and we did! There were many spots available and not many people visiting at 8:30PM (yes the sunsets at 10 PM).
Parking Update At Moraine Lake
Starting in 2023, booking a shuttle to Moraine Lake is a requirement! Because of the popularity of Moraine Lake, these changes were made by Parks Canada. It is stated that an excessive drain on resources of having 24-hour parking tenets is no longer sustainable. If you’re wanting to check out sunrise at Moraine Lake, you will have to be creative with a pedal assist bicycle. Luckily from downtown Banff biking is accessible to Moraine Lake at just 72.5 Km. Parks Canada states that they aren’t providing early shuttles to Moraine Lake as it is disturbing wildlife.
Pro-tip: Moraine Lake road didn’t open until June 15th of 2022 due to avalanche risk. Plan accordingly and always check with the rangers before you go. It is closed most of the year.
We did the short walk up to the rock pile viewpoint directly from the parking lot which was the best view in my opinion. Since the lakebed wasn’t entirely full, we were able to walk along the shoreline. Visitors wait until the lake is full as they want the iconic canoe photo. Canoe rentals didn’t happen until a week after we left as the lake wasn’t full quite yet. Rentals are $115 for an hour of paddling.
Being there in “not as perfect” conditions gave us a better experience as the crowds weren’t large whatsoever. There is a 3.2 mile out and back shoreline hike that we didn’t complete that is a great way to escape the crowding. The thing about Banff is many people park, look, and leave. Make it your own adventure for your optimal experience!
Day Two
Lake Louise
On this day we planned to visit Lake Louise, another very popular destination to visit, next to Moraine Lake. We had a shuttle booked for this but since we had such great luck at Lake Louise, we opted to drive ourselves and had success once again with parking. The parking lot is much bigger in this area, and you do have to pay to park. We arrived by 9:30AM which made our experience much more enjoyable as the crowds seemed to roll in around 11AM.
Fairmont Inn
Lake Louise is popular for the Fairmont Hotel, which was founded in the early 1900s when the Canada Pacific Railway was built. The hotel that stands today still has a wing from 1913 called The Painter Wing, the oldest part of the hotel. While at minimum in summer $1,000 a night to stay, it was worth it to stop in here for a cocktail after our hike. Surprisingly, the lunch was mediocre and I would save your money for better dining in Banff and Canmore. The views are absolutely stunning though and the cocktails were worth it.
In the wintertime seeing the ice castles and ice skating around the lake is popular. In summer renting a canoe is the most popular activity. It is $135 for an hour and often times in busy season you may experience long wait lines to rent a canoe. We opted out for this as we planned to canoe at Emerald Lake instead.
Lake Agnes Tea House
The main objective for visiting Lake Louise was hiking to the Lake Agnes Tea House. Built in 1901, the teahouse was built as a refuge for hikers. The building was replaced in 1981 but still has original tables, windows, and chairs. The tea house is open from 8am to 5pm. Bring cash if you want to purchase anything as often times the internet may be down up there and they cannot process your card.
When we got to Lake Agnes, it started to snow quite heavily and we lost visibility so we did not hike the additional km to the Big Beehive lookout of Lake Louise. We would have done this if the weather didn’t take a turn on us. There are additional trail options you can take from here to see to the Plain of Six Glaciers and make it a loop!
Distance: 4.6 miles round trip
Elevation gain: 1,427 feet
Day Three
Lake Minnewanka
On this day we decided to drive and see multiple lakes in one day. That is what is nice about all of the popular lakes in Banff National Park of Canada is the accessibility. Most of them are paved so it is not necessary to hike to see them, making it more accessible for all. We loved this aspect!
We drove the Lake Minnewanka Loop and stopped by each lake along the way. On this drive we spotted grizzly bears, elk, deer, and goats. It is popular to take a guided boat ride on the lake which is $51 a person for 1 hour. Just like any activity in Banff, book ahead of time to ensure you’re able to experience this.
Two Jack Lake
We brought champagne and chilled by the lake on the moody day we had. It was an 80% chance of rain that day but we barley saw a drop. An important lesson not to fret on the weather forecast. Plus, it is part of the adventure. On a forum I was following before the trip I read of multiple people cancelling due to the weather. Another reason why we went end of June (less people).
Johnson Lake
We stopped by Johnson Lake on the way to Two Jack since we saw a sign for it. We didn’t think much of the lake as it seemed like more of a reservoir. It would be a great place for a picnic though! Banff National Park of Canada is pleasant like that though, there truly is beauty on every corner.
Day Four
On this day we wanted to drive to hike Peyto Lake which is towards Jasper inside of Banff National Park. Many people drive all the way to Jasper in a day and back to see the sights, but we didn’t plan to do so. If you want to add this to your trip, the drive to Jasper from Canmore is 3 hours and 30 minutes on Icefields Parkway.
Driving A Portion of Icefields Parkway
The drive along Icefields Parkway is said to be most scenic road to drive on in all of Canada. With all the stops you will want to make, people suggest making an entire day of it. If you’re up for the driving, this is a great way to see a lot in the park. Along Icefields Parkway wildlife is very present, so be sure to slow down and use hazards if you see animals. Most importantly, do not stop in the middle of the road to view wildlife and remain in your vehicle. Take a moment from the car and continue on, as you are in their home.
What we didn’t see that you can add to this portion:
- Glass bottomed skywalk, $27 a person
- Columbia Icefields Tour onto a Athabasca Glacier, $77 a person
- Valley of Five Lakes-2.9 mile loop viewing five lakes with 531 feet of inline
- Johnston Canyon to Ink Pots-7.3 miles with 1,994 feet of elevation gain
Peyto Lake
One of the most anticipated lakes of the trip in Banff National Park of Canada(behind Moraine Lake of course) was Peyto Lake for me. When we visited we did the Bow Summit and Peyto Lake Viewpoint hike that goes beyond the main viewing area. Recently there has been a viewing platform built which is wheelchair accessible as the trail is paved. I thought this was pretty amazing to see! If you hike beyond that by the trail and go right there is a viewpoint without the platform, which is where we took most of our photos.
We arrived by 9am and it was not crowded for a Saturday, and many people went to the platform and did not continue on. The summit portion of the trail there was only a couple people hiking, and we got to see marmots at the top! When we hiked out by 11 the parking lot was completely full and there was an uncomfortable amount of people on trail. Going earlier is always better!
Distance: 4.1 miles out and back
Elevation: 918 feet
Bow Lake
Bow Lake was an easy stop as it is right off the freeway. It was absolutely stunning and one of my favorites. In the wintertime snowshoeing and cross country skiing is popular here. We didn’t make the stop but an option is to visit the Lodge At Bow Lake. Formerly known as, Num-Ti-Jah Lodge, this historic site built by one of Banff’s early mountain guides, Jimmy Simpson. Parks Canada has worked with local Indigenous Elders to change the name, which I was thrilled to hear. There is a cafe open here from 10AM-4PM serving light snacks and fresh baked goods.
Day Five
Emerald Lake
We wanted to see Emerald Lake in Yoho National Park and canoe on it since we had read that it was cheaper than Lake Louise and Moraine Lake in Banff National Park in Canada. For a Saturday we were pleasantly surprised to see no line and parking ease in the afternoon.
Canoe Rentals at Emerald Lake are $90 an hour and can be rented 10am -4:45pm everyday of the week. Reservations cannot be made in advance.
Pro-tip: for a less busy lunch, small town feel, stop at the town of Field on the way in. Just outside of Emerald Lake we had a delicious all organic lunch at The Siding Cafe. We were going to eat at the Emerald Lake Lodge but decided to take a detour. Happy accident at best.
Emerald Lake Lodge
If you plan far enough in advance, it would be stunning to stay at Emerald Lake Lodge. The lodge has 24 cabin like rental rooms that overlook the lake. We added this to our list for next time, it looks stunning! There are three restaurants on site: Canadian Rocky Mountain Ranch, Urban Butcher, and The Lake House.
Vermillion Lake
Just five minutes from downtown Banff, Vermillion was a great place for us to unwind and walk around after dinner. There are shoreline docks to sit on right off the road. Banff National Park in Canada is wonderful like that, you don’t have to travel too far to witness pristine mountain views and glacier fed lakes.
Banff Gondola: Ride to Sulpher Mountain
I was on the fence about wanting to do the Banff Gondola or not. It was suggested that it was worth it, so we bought tickets at $50 a person. My husband thought this was at the top of a ski resort, and was shocked to find out they built an entire 4 story building on top of Sulphur Mountain!
Sky Bistro is a fine dining restaurant at the top where we were able to snag a cocktail table and get a drink. Reservations open 30 days before the date you want to book, and they sell out immediately. The view from the inside was incredible! We then went upstairs to the roof for champagne and live music. Lucky for us just two days before it had snowed up here. We were lucky enough to have clear sky’s and an expansive view of the valley of Banff National Park of Canada below.
Pro-tip: Give yourself enough time to take the free Roam Transit bus from town to the base of the gondola. Parking is limited up here and most likely you will be turned around with nowhere to park.
Banff Hot Springs
Near the gondola is the Banff Hot Springs. We did not visit on this trip as it was quite busy. It’s $9.25 for an adult and $8.00 for a child. Reservations aren’t possible and the resort requests that guests do not stay for more than an hour. You can also take the Roam Transit shuttle bus to the parking lot. When we rode the bus to the gondola parking lot we saw cars getting turned around at the Banff Hot Springs as well as parking is limited.
Restaurants
We were shocked at how good the food was in the area! Every meal that we had was delicious and our service was delightful. We made dinner reservations a month in advance. I suggest you do this if possible. Some places you have to book even further in advance, like Sky Bistro on the Banff Gondola.
Below are recommendations of the places we went to that we suggest.
- Crazyweed Kitchen: located in Canmore and Banff, we loved the unique mediterranean, Indian fusion of this place.
- Hello Sunshine: located in downtown Banff, sushi and karaoke bar with quality fish and cocktails.
- Bison Restaurant: we ate here for our last dinner, ended up being our favorite of the trip. Located in downtown Banff, this farm-to-table Italian fusion was to die for, all of it!
- Canmore Shawarma: we stopped here for an easy lunch and were surprised how delicious it was! Canmore and Banff has quite a few Indian restaurants to choose from which was a pleasant surprise.
Pin For Later!
Visiting Banff National Park in Canada was on my bucket list for so long it was incredible to check it off the list. Looking to travel to the Pacific Northwest? My adventure blog is full of ideas for future travel inspiration.
